[Innovational Iron] 7:14 pm: Welcome to our third
demo! Tonight Saign has shared some tips and a lot of
photos as an introduction to Repousse. Saign prepared
this demo and e-mailed it to me a few days ago. I will be cutting and pasting it
into the chat room tonight for him. So, even though it’s under my name, it’s
his demo. Please direct any questions about the demo to him.
[Innovational Iron] 7:16 pm: What’s up everybody,
today I’m going to do a beginners demo on chasing and Repousse.
First off I’d like to say that I’ve been doing this for about a year and a
half. I’ve never taken a class, I’ve only read books, found some info online,
and had quite a bit of practice. I don’t consider myself to be an expert at
this, or a teacher. I consider myself intermediate with no formal training,
Matt asked me to do this, so I will share what I know. Through practice and
research I’ve found that this is what works the best for me at this time, but
with every piece I learn new things and am constantly getting better. What I
share with you today will get you on your way, with basic knowledge of the
process, and how the tools work. If you’re serious about this art I would
suggest taking a course by a master like Valentin Yotkov, which I hope to do in the future.
OK, now you’ve read my disclaimer lets get started. I think the number one
fundamental with Repousse is patience, and whole lot of it. Take your time,
don’t rush it. Wait for the pitch to get hot enough, let it cool all the way
before you start chasing, and move the metal slowly. Using
more light strokes works a lot better than a few hard ones.
Today I’ll be going over the transfer of the design, setting your work in the
pitch, chasing, removal of the pitch, annealing, Repousse, and a little finish.
Bear with me cause there’s a lot of photos.
[Innovational Iron] 7:17 pm: Materials:
A design
Pitch
Pitch bowl or tray
A rubber or foam mat to set the pitch bowl on helps alot
Chasing tools
Chasing hammer
Spray glue
Either a torch(propane or acetylene), an oven, or a heat gun works for small
stuff, but takes a while
Steel wool or scotch brite pad
Ear plugs, and safety glasses are recommended
Lacquer thinner(optional)
A piece of 32 oz copper
[Innovational Iron] 7:18 pm: First you start by
picking a design. There are tons of great books by
There a few different ways to transfer a design, but I’m going to show you the
easiest. Once you’ve got the design you want, you can just cut it out, or scan
it and enlarge or whatever in photoshop, then print.
A note about picking designs(and mine was pretty bad
in this regard) is the thinner and cleaner lines that the design has, will be
easier to get a cleaner piece later on.
Once you’ve got the design to the size you want cut it out leaving a little
room on the outside. Cut out your copper leaving at least an inch or more
around your design. Spray the back of the design lightly with spray glue( I use 3M spray 77 or 90) then spray the copper. Let sit for a few seconds to get tacky, and place the design on the
copper. Move it around a little to get rid of bubbles and get a good
adhesion. Let it sit until dry.
www.innovationaliron.com/demos/12-07-06/DSC00001.JPG
www.innovationaliron.com/demos/12-07-06/DSC00002.JPG
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www.innovationaliron.com/demos/12-07-06/DSC00005.JPG
[Innovational Iron] 7:21 pm: Take the piece to an
anvil or solid piece of metal, and hammer the corners over 90 degrees, about ¼”
from the edge for better grip in the pitch, using a chasing or any flat face
hammer.
www.innovationaliron.com/demos/12-07-06/DSC00006.JPG
www.innovationaliron.com/demos/12-07-06/DSC00008.JPG
[Innovational Iron] 7:22 pm: Now its time to set in
the pitch. The two best pitches available are the red German, and the northwest
pitch. I have a very large pitch pan I made out of 11 gauge
for large projects and smaller pitch bowls. I think I got a bad batch or the
red German as it was too hard, and kept cracking on me so I ordered some medium
grade from northwest pitchworks which was too soft.
So I mixed 4 kilos of the red with 10 pounds of medium and am very happy with
the consistency now.
To heat the pitch you can use a oven set at 350 for 20
minutes or so. Use a torch with a very low flame, or a heat gun. I used a
torch, this method is the quickest and most dangerous. When heating with a
torch, be sure not to burn it or else it is ruined(and expensive I might add).
Use a low flame and get to a syrupy consistency, it might bubble a little, but
that is when you know you’re getting it to hot.
Sorry camera ran out of batteries while setting I have process pics later in demo
Once it’s hot enough to stick nicely, lay your piece in design up. I like to
squish it down with a chisel or piece of wood and cover the edges to ensure
that it is stuck and wont lift up when working it. (If it does you need to
reset). Let cool completely. I try to set at night and come back in the
morning, it takes a couple hours to cool completely.
www.innovationaliron.com/demos/12-07-06/DSC00010.JPG
www.innovationaliron.com/demos/12-07-06/DSC00013.JPG
[Innovational Iron] 7:25 pm: Now we get in to the
fun part. Take your thin liners and thin curved liner and begin to trace the
pattern. I like to start from the outside and work in, as the piece will start
to taco as you work it. I like my liners very sharp so I get nice tight lines.
Here I show my thick and thin and curved liners
www.innovationaliron.com/demos/12-07-06/DSC00009.JPG
[Innovational Iron] 7:26 pm: Pause for Questions:
[Deafboy] 7:27 pm: no
questions yet...
[saign charlestein]
7:28 pm: pretty strait forward....lets move on
[Chris] 7:28 pm: I have black jewelers pitch and it
is too brittle for larger work. Any suggestion for softening. I was planning to
purchase some red someday down the road.
[saign charlestein]
7:29 pm: I haven’t worked with the black, I think its tar based and wouldn’t
know how to thin it maybe linseed oil?
[Chris] 7:29 pm: OK
[Innovational Iron] 7:30 pm: The trick about
chasing, is that you hold the tool at a slight angle and tap lightly. Let the
hammer push the tool and your hand guide it, never letting the tool leave the
copper. Try and make your blows consistent in strength and rhythm, this will
help to get clean lines. Don’t be afraid to move your piece around to get it to
a comfortable angle to work. I find chasing toward myself is a pretty easy way
to get clean lines. Make sure to switch to the right tool for the job.
The strait liners can navigate slight curves, but use the curved liner for the
tight spots. Tap lightly but make sure it’s hard enough to leave a deep
impression on the back, as you’ll need it later.
www.innovationaliron.com/demos/12-07-06/DSC00012.JPG
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[Innovational Iron] 7:34 pm: Once you’re done with
the first pass you’ll need to remove the piece from the pitch. Here I don’t
care about distorting the piece and it’s small enough that I can chip the pitch
away from the edges, (cupping my hand over it so it doesn’t fly everywhere) and
pry it up. For bigger pieces, or ones you don’t want to bend at all, you’ll
want to heat and pull out with tongs or pry with a chisel when hot enough.
Check the back to make sure you have a good impression to work from the back.
If so then remove the paper with lacquer thinner, or burn it off while
annealing. If not then reset and do another pass until its deep enough.
www.innovationaliron.com/demos/12-07-06/DSC00049.JPG
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[Innovational Iron] 7:37 pm: Now we anneal. To
anneal copper heat to a dull red and quench in water or a pickling solution. I
just used water, and didn’t pickle. To pickle make a bath of sulfuric acid and
water about 1:9 ratio( always add acid to water not the other way) and let sit
until fire scale is removed( time depends on heat and amount of scale).
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[Innovational Iron] 7:40 pm: Once annealed flatten
with light blows from a rawhide or dead blow mallet. Take back to the anvil and
crease the edges over the same as before in the opposite direction.
I like to take steel wool or a scotch brite pad, and
rub the back. This really highlights the lines made by chasing the front. Once
your piece is prepped, set in pitch using the same method as before. Let cool
completely.
www.innovationaliron.com/demos/12-07-06/DSC00094.JPG
www.innovationaliron.com/demos/12-07-06/DSC00096.JPG
[Innovational Iron] 7:42 pm: Now on to the
Repousse. My favorite push tools are oblong they look like bigger blunt chisels
and as you do more projects you’ll want a ton of them. I’ve shown a few here.
Masters suggest that you have 3-7 sizes of every tool, and you’ll end up using
them, trust me. Every piece I make I end up making another set of tools. I have
probably 50-100 and need a lot more.
www.innovationaliron.com/demos/12-07-06/DSC00105.JPG
[Innovational Iron] 7:43 pm: Pause for Questions:
[walker] 7:43 pm: didn't see you anneal before the
initial chasing......not necessary?
[Chris] 7:44 pm: Are you shaping and heat treating
drill rod steel (high carbon) for tools?
[saign charlestein]
7:44 pm: no coppers pretty soft to start and I don’t find it necessary
[saign charlestein]
7:45 pm: yes my tools are 0-1 and s7 matt did a demo on how to make them last
month
[Deafboy] 7:45 pm: you
said to keep you liner at a slight angle... I'm assuming you hold the same
angle thru the whole design?
[Innovational Iron] 7:45 pm: http://www.innovationaliron.com/demos/11-02-06/Chat%20log4.htm
[saign charlestein] 7:46
pm: pretty much...the angle will change slightly as you go around curves...
[saign charlestein]
7:46 pm: a little more angle for sharper curves and so on
[duck] 7:46 pm: i think you
said 32oz. copper can you translate that to gauge?
[saign charlestein]
7:47 pm: its about 18 gauge i think its .043
[saign charlestein]
7:48 pm: you can go thinner or thicker but that’s a good thickness to start
[Chris] 7:48 pm: Thanks for the link. I checked it
out, so I assume it is in a database and I will return to it. I am enjoying
myself. This is great!
[Innovational Iron] 7:49 pm: Yes Chris, all the photos
are in the link. Enjoy!
[saign
charlestein] 7:49 pm: cool deal any other questions
[Deafboy] 7:49 pm: nope
[Innovational Iron] 7:49 pm: Ok... Moving on....
[metalsmith]
7:49 pm: Saign, what do you use to support the large
tray with the pitch?
[saign
charlestein] 7:51 pm: I have it on a dense piece of
3/4'' foam called L-200 it works pretty well really dense and absorbent
[metalsmith] 7:51 pm:
thanks
[Innovational Iron] 7:51 pm: To Repousse, you’re
going to want to push in between the lines that made chasing, forming a relief
on the front. At first it might be a little foggy of what you want to push
where, especially on more intricate pieces so I like to have a copy of the
design to look at as a reference. I like to use a smaller push to outline the relief
for more depth, and also keeping the center thick. So again start at the
outside and work your way in chasing on the inside of the lines.
www.innovationaliron.com/demos/12-07-06/DSC00097.JPG
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[Innovational Iron] 7:55 pm: Once you’ve got and
outline take a larger push and work in between the lines. Use the tool with the
shape that best suits the shape your trying to
achieve. Remember more lighter blows are better than a few hard ones. Use the
same technique as chasing the front, letting the hammer push the tool never
lifting it up. Try and be as even as possible, and as smooth as possible. What
the back looks like is what the front will look like in reverse. Don’t be
afraid to use your tools at an angle to push the metal where you want it to go.
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[Innovational Iron] 8:01 pm: Once satisfied with
the back remove, and follow the previous steps to anneal, flatten, turn the
edges back over, rub with steel wool. The only difference in this process is in
reseting in the pitch. Before you reset you want to
take some pitch and fill in the relief on the back by melting pitch in and
smearing it around with a chisel until it’s flat. Then reset and wait to cool.
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[Innovational Iron] 8:08 pm: Now on to the final
pass. Use your thick strait and curved liners to even out the lines that you
chased on the first pass. This also should help flatten the work and make it
more uniform. Again use light blows, and don’t be scared to work them at an
angle to help get the shape you want.
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[Innovational Iron] 8:16 pm: Pause for Questions:
[Deafboy] 8:16 pm: Saign, I wished you had more pictures hahah
[Deafboy] 8:17 pm: Thank
you for the step by step
[saign charlestein]
8:17 pm: I know its a lot of pics but they speak
louder than words....sorry
[Spiderwebdesigns] 8:17 pm:
very detailed
[saign charlestein]
8:17 pm: its easier than trying to explain
[ShawnM] 8:17 pm: hi
everybody my PC finally decided to behave - this is great Saign
[walker] 8:18 pm: how much time do you have in this
piece up to this point?
[prowess] 8:18 pm:
absolutely terriffic demo!
[Innovational Iron] 8:18 pm: NEW COLOR Shawn!
Please...
[saign
charlestein] 8:18 pm: hi shawn
thanks
[ShawnM] 8:18 pm: hi
everybody my PC finally decided to behave - this is great Saign
[Deafboy] 8:18 pm: ouch
my eyes!
[ShawnM] 8:18 pm: hi
everybody my PC finally decided to behave - this is great Saign
[ShawnM] 8:19 pm: i give up on trying to be colorful:p
[saign charlestein]
8:19 pm: probably 2-3 hours to finish but I kind of rushed it after work a few
nights
[Innovational Iron] 8:19 pm: We're almost done. Any questions?
[saign
charlestein] 8:19 pm: not including pitch cooling
[Deafboy] 8:19 pm: Saign, when you fill in the backside of the piece with
pitch, do get the copper hot first?
[saign
charlestein] 8:20 pm: no it heats with the pitch
[Deafboy] 8:20 pm: ok
thanks
[saign charlestein]
8:20 pm: smear it around to fill all the deep spots
[Deafboy] 8:21 pm: as
you're heating it?
[prowess] 8:21 pm: I've
heard smiths using sand and/or fine gravel instead of pitch, ever tried that?
[saign
charlestein] 8:21 pm: Ive
used a sandbag before but doesn’t work very well
[saign charlestein]
8:22 pm: yep when its hot Dan
[Spiderwebdesigns] 8:22 pm:
How about lead?
[Innovational Iron] 8:22 pm: Pitch helps
"grab" the metal
[saign charlestein]
8:22 pm: lead works great...but it doesn’t hold your piece down so you need to
clamp your work
[saign charlestein]
8:23 pm: perfect hardness though
[saign charlestein]
8:23 pm: as matt said the pitch holds and supports
[saign charlestein]
8:23 pm: much better
[Chris] 8:24 pm: I find that sandbags or leather or
rug work for larger or less defined shapes. The pitch it what is needed to set
and develop fine detail no matter what the scale. The
only thing I have read about lead is possible pitting of silve
on reheating.
[warrent]
8:24 pm: with the red pitch does room temperature make much difference in the
hardness/softness
[saign charlestein]
8:24 pm: yes alot
[saign charlestein]
8:25 pm: it gets brittle when cold and mushy when hot
[Innovational Iron] 8:25 pm: Saign,
you said you like your liners sharp. But the lines look wide. (I like it) How
much of a edge do you have on your liners?
[warrent] 8:26 pm: I have
green pitch and black pitch and the black is the most temp stable, green you
have to keep fusing with the temp
[duck] 8:26 pm: very cool Saign,
I'm still a little goofed on the pitch, is the density and character similar to
wax?
[saign
charlestein] 8:26 pm: they're pretty sharp
[Deafboy] 8:26 pm: what
happens if you make a mistake? like punched too hard?
[The Guild]: ShawnM has
left at 8:27 pm
[The Guild]: walker has left at 8:27 pm
[The Guild]: walker has left at 8:27 pm
[saign charlestein]
8:28 pm: with the 32 ounce its pretty forgiving but aslong
as you dont punch through you can try and fix on the
other side
[saign charlestein]
8:28 pm: we're almost done any other questions
[Innovational Iron] 8:28 pm: Ready to finish?
[Deafboy] 8:29 pm: yes!
[Chris] 8:29 pm: Yup
[prowess] 8:29 pm: interesting. Thanks.
[Innovational Iron] 8:29 pm: Once you’ve completed
that pass, you can break out some matting tools to flatten the background and
add texture. These are made by shaping, then getting the end red hot and
hitting them into sand, or a file with a hammer.
Texture the background with the appropriate tool, again with nice even strokes.
www.innovationaliron.com/demos/12-07-06/DSC00171.JPG
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[Innovational Iron] 8:34 pm: Once you’re happy with
how it looks remove, and either melt the pitch off, or remove with lacquer
thinner. Now we flatten with light blows with a rawhide, or dead blow mallet.
Rub down with steel wool or scotch brite. Use a
little patina if you want and you’ve done a simple Repousse piece.
www.innovationaliron.com/demos/12-07-06/DSC00182.JPG
Note: when doing your final pass there are a ton of techniques that can be
implied, with a ton of different tools, but this being a beginners
demo I didn’t go there. Also I was going to make a functional piece that could be
used as something, but I’ve been swamped and have had to fit this in after
work. So sorry…hope you guys liked it.
Resources:
Allcraft in New York for pitch, pitch bowls, hammers
1 (800) 645 7124 www.allcraftonline.com
Northwest pitchworks www.northwestpitchworks.com
Home depot for steel wool, spray glue, scotch brite,
lacquer thinner, eye and ear protection, heat gun ect.
Good books:
Moving Metal by Adolf Steins
Silversmiting by Rupert Finegold
and William Seitz
Design books can be found at www.doverpublications.com
For more info and classes go to www.valentinyotkov.com
[Innovational Iron] 8:35 pm: That's all folks!
[warrent]
8:36 pm: Thank you
[Deafboy] 8:36 pm: That
was a rock'n demo Saign!
Thank you for taking the time to do it!
[prowess] 8:36 pm: Terriffic!
[walker] 8:36 pm: Great demo
Saign!!!!!!
[Spiderwebdesigns] 8:36 pm:
Three Cheers. EXCELLENT
[SW Designs] 8:36 pm: That was cool! Thanks
[metalsmith] 8:36 pm:
Thanks Saign!!! Bravo
[Innovational Iron] 8:36 pm: As always I'll repost
it on the forum.
[Innovational Iron] 8:37 pm: Great job Saign!
[metalsmith]
8:37 pm: yes please do
[saign charlestein]
8:37 pm: thanks sorry it didnt come out better with
more explanation but Ive been really busy and had to
squeeze it in late
[Chris] 8:37 pm: Thank you for the demo. The design
was simple and elegant. I likes the way you
transitioned the inner and outer scolls, flowed well.
The finish broght out your detailed work!! Thanks
again.
[duck] 8:38 pm: very cool Saign..Thanks
[saign charlestein]
8:39 pm: no problem thanks for the compliments
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[Spiderwebdesigns] 8:41 pm:
The demo was well put together and answered alot of
my questions. Thanks
[duck] 8:41 pm: I asked this question earlier, is the
pitch alot like wax?
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[saign charlestein]
8:41 pm: sorry similar but not quite
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[prowess] 8:42 pm: thanks again, very informative,
good night all
[duck] 8:42 pm: thanks again..it's late ...buy
[Spiderwebdesigns] 8:42 pm: saign, have you ever worked with lead? I have a bunch of
wheel wieghts
[saign charlestein]
8:43 pm: no problem goodnight
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[walker] 8:43 pm: Thanks again for the demo, Saign. It was slick. Also, thank you Matt for making this
forum possible. Night everybody!
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[Innovational Iron] 8:43 pm: Chapstick
on the back of your piece helps during removal from the pitch.
[saign charlestein]
8:44 pm: I have but as you work the piece it will start to bend and taco so it
becomes a chore to keep it in place
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[Spiderwebdesigns] 8:46 pm:
Thanks again everyone, enjoyed it very much.
[Spiderwebdesigns] 8:46 pm:
time to put this tied butt to bed
[saign charlestein]
8:46 pm: thanks for coming
[saign charlestein]
8:46 pm: goodnight
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[metalsmith] 8:47 pm: Buenas noches to all!